Test results for Agfa APX 100.

When taking pictures for the test it is best to choose a subject that is evenly lit. This will make the light reading more representative of the whole picture area. Unlike a high contrast view with deep shadows and strong highlights forcing you to take several light readings to find the average setting. It also makes it easer to evaluate the negatives once processed.

The processing of the film went well having spent all morning shuffling developing tanks, measuring jugs and developer bottles, the three strips of film have all been consistently processed. I am very pleased with the density of the negatives, when dry I will do a contact sheet so I can judge how well they will print.

You can see from the picture above, that the 13 minutes development time that digital truths massive dev chart suggests, is spot on. The results also show that you really do need to make a total and utter mess of things before you get a negative that will not print.

The light meter read negative at the centre
of the test strip.

There is a general guide to check whether a film has been correctly exposed and developed it should produce a continuously toned negative. The subjects deepest shadow should be perceptibly heavier than the clear of the film base. The areas that represent the brightest important detail in the negative must not be so dark that you can not read the printed words of a book through them on a sunny day as shown right. Its a quick way of checking to see if your negatives have been correctly developed.

The picture below shows the prints produced by the light meter read negatives in the centre of each of the test strips.

The difference between the top and centre is one and a half stops. bottom and centre is three-quarters of a stop. It is obvious that the longer you develop the less return you get for the time spent. Meaning that you will only get a slight improvement in the quality of your negatives for each minute of extra process time you give them over thirteen minutes.

These tests represent my own personal experiences I strongly encourage each individual to check this film out for themselves. The experiments I have carried out are not exhaustive and should only be used as a starting point.






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Sorting out the test strips

Keeping your negatives safe.

Is important! You need to make sure that the method you choose will keep your negatives flat and safe from damage. The cheapest way may not be the best course to take in the long run.

You can buy loose leaf pages in plastic or paper divided into six for 35mm film which will hold thirty-six frames cut into lengths of six. They have a white edge with ring binder holes that allow you to store the pages in albums/ folders or box folders. (I think the latter is the better solution from experience.) The white edge also means that you can write details on it like the method of development and/or a serial number, this will help you together with a contents list at the front of the album/folder to give you access to your negatives instantly.

The same type of leaves are used for medium format negatives 6x4.5 and 6x6. They are divided into four and the negatives are cut into lengths of four and three respectively.

It is important that the negatives are completely dry, before you load them into the storage leaf otherwise they will stick making it impossible to slide them in. If you still have trouble inserting them when they are dry you can snip off the corners of the leading frame of each strip.