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Showing posts with label photomi7ch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label photomi7ch. Show all posts

Saturday 15 February 2014

The most popular posts of 2013.

William Henry fox Talbot 

These are the ten most popular posts on this site for 2013. In some cases not the best written but then who sets out to write a bad article. I compare it to making pictures, I go out with the intention of producing my best work. I chose those pictures that meet that criterion and share them with you. Then the choice is yours and that means you may not agree.

Of the hundred and fifty or so posts on the blog the following are the most visited making them the most popular.


  1. Fox Talbot a short history.
  2. Darkroom layout.
  3. Preparing the pinhole camera for use.
  4. Basic split grade printing.
  5. Choosing an enlarger.
  6. Print washing.
  7. Test results for Agfa APX 100.
  8. Fuji GW 690111 overview/review.
  9. Dryside of the darkroom.
  10. Keeping your negatives safe.


Saturday 23 June 2012

The Focus finder.


This is a wonderfully simple piece of darkroom equipment. Basicly it is a magnifying glass and mirror. It provides the user with the optimum sharpness for the enlargement by focusing on the grain of the negative. 

Also known as a grain magnifier it rests on the masking frame where it diverts a small amount of light from the projected negative to your eye as you look through the small magnifying lens. With one hand on the focusing control of the enlarger you gently turn the knob until the grain becomes sharp in the mirror. This translates to a sharp image at easel level; to maintain this accuracy a piece of waste photographic paper should be placed in the masking frame with the magnifier on top. It is easiest to focus on the grain with the enlarging lens set at its widest aperture and then re-checked at the working aperture. To make sure that the focus has not changed. 


Some focus finders can only be used in the central area of the projected image. This is because the angle of the light is more severe at the edges and corners. If you wish to check these areas to make sure that the whole negative is in focus you will need a magnifier that allows for this with a wider mirror and tilting aim.

Wednesday 14 March 2012

Dust, dust and more dust.


Dust! Don't you just love the way it manages to settle on to your equipment just as you make that all important exposure? The more you fiddle about picking every speck off, those bits 'standing in the wings' charge in at increasing speed  towards  your lens, negative and light sensor; so begins a  never ending battle fought everyday over the same territory! Should someone   come up  with a device that will send those particles packing you'll feel your prayers have been answered.
 

Welcome the Zerostat gun! one shot and those pesky particles are de-charged and falling from your lens etc. But come on! Can this really be true? Well No! after a few days of using this device I discovered that it attracted more dust than ever before! It was a nice idea while it lasted. Needless to say that this pistol has been consigned to history.


Really the only way to keep these little white specks from appearing on your final pictures is to be methodical in your approach. Checking your camera, lenses and enlarger regularly. But before you start this process it is a good idea to de-charge yourself by touching something that is earthed this will take the static out of your body and stop to some extent the static building up in the item you are trying to de-dust. Whatever you do don't use a cloth to clean your film strip, the static this induces will attract every bit of hair and dust in the universe turning it into a hair ball. If this happens its time to find another negative to print. I find that a puffer brush and a Kinetronice antistatic whisk brush work the best- in most cases removing the particle/s and hair in one go without a lot of fuss. Less fuss means more pictures printed with less spotting once the photograph is dry.
 

Remember never touch the bristle of your brush with bare fingers this will transfer microscopic particles of grease which will then be deposited to whatever you are trying to clear, making the job more difficult and in the case of old lenses will attack the coating.