With the
test film exposed it's finding the time to process the strips.
I have enough equipment that allows me to develop them one after the
other. I will need at least a morning for cutting the film into
lengths, setting out the chemicals and kit, develop,stop, fix and
wash. Not forgetting that PMK Pyro developer can only be mixed in
each case just before use.
The film was
inserted into a Nikon F5 with automatic load which is a bit of a
pain. If it was manual loading you would be able to mark the film
before you shut the back and wind on to the first frame. I know from
experience that the F5 has about 150 mm (6") lead before the
first frame which would be an extra two shot if it was manually
loaded making Agfa's APX a forty picture film. Each test strip is
five frames long with two blanks to allow for error when cutting it
to lengths of 235 mm (9").
This is the first
time I have had to use my new darkroom in full black-out as I usually
use a changing bag to load film into the process tank. I'm pleased to
say there were no light leaks. So I could see where to cut the film
in the dark I laid a rule on the work top with two bits of tape
attached to it at 150 mm and 235 mm respectively. All I needed to do
was pull the film from the cassette and cut to length at the tape
marks. It surprised me how well this method worked. The remaining
exposed film I wound back into the film holder to be processed later
when I know the development time is right.
My working method
for producing the test negatives:
- Add
Part A of the developer mix to 250 mls of filtered water
(tap water will do) and wait till the temperature reads 21 degrees
C.
Pre-soak for 1 minute.
I have found that PMK Pyro developer is prone to air bells/bubbles
forming on the film that are not always dislodged by taping the tank
on the work top.
Add
part B of the developer and
make up to 300 mls in doing this it will bring the temperature down
to its working level of 20 C. stir and pour into the processing
tank.
Invert
continuously for the first minute and
tap tank on work top at the end.
Invert
once ever 15 seconds. For
6.5 minutes.
Stop,
fix and wash as
normal.
Repeat
the above twice more
with developing times of 26 and 13 minutes respectively.
If all goes well
you will get a set of beautifully toned negatives.
Related posts:
Test results
This
is the fastest way you can dry your negatives. I had forgotten about this method
until recently. Why? because it is the first time I have had access to a
spinner. I recollect that there was/is opposition from other photographers in
the use of the centrifuge method but cannot recall for what reasons.
