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Saturday 25 February 2017

Picture Post Eukobrom AC Developed photographs

Paper Kentmere RC gloss.
The images that appear in this gallery have been processed using Tetenals Eukobrom AC developer on a number of different papers.

I would like to thank Tetenal for there interest in and re-blogging of the first look post. It was a big surprise when they got intouch.

There is a new post on Eukobrom to be published not all good news.




Paper Fomatone  Chamois 542-11 matt


Paper Ilford FB gloss
Paper Fotospeed RC gloss

Paper Kentmere RC gloss

Paper Fomatone Chamois 542-11 matt


Technical Data:

Camera Bronica SQAi, lens 80mm, Film ilford FP4+ iso 125, Fomapan 100 iso 100, Negative size 120 6x6, Developed in Studional.

Scanned from paper size 9.5 x 12, paper used listed with each image.









Friday 17 February 2017

Double grade printing.


From time to time I find it strange the way events come together! for instance, I was in the darkroom working on some prints that I could not get the sky to burn in properly. There was nothing unusual in me burning in the sky, most of the photographs I produce have had the skies enhanced in some way. But this time I could not get it the way I wanted it.


The strangeness in this case was that a few days before, I was reading a thread on my favourite forum about how to deal with whited out skies when printing. I took part giving an account of my method of dealing with it. One of the other contributors suggested split grade printing. But when he described the process it is more akin to double grade printing - this is where you use another grade to bring out part of the image that will not burn in at the grade you are using.


All the circled images needed double grade printing.

The process:


The contact print in this case suggested that the stone work of the building and sky were under exposed when compared to the reflection. The segmented test print (grade 2) proved this by indicating that it may need to be burned in for an extra twenty seconds above base exposure of thirty seven seconds. Even with the extra light it did not make the difference. After a further print and forty seconds burn in, it still was not right. I decided to see if changing to a harder grade when burning in would make the difference.

With the discussion still fresh in my mind I opted to use the double grade method to see if it would solve the problem I was having. I normally would have used pre flashed paper but that would mean starting all over again with a pre-flashed test strip. I chose the simpler route of dialing in a harder grade, in this case 4, before burning in the sky and face of the building.

The red area indicates the over lap area of the mask.
Something to consider:

When using this method certain negatives can produce a grainier look to the picture which may not be to your liking and you need to be careful not to knock the masking frame when changing the settings and using the mask.

The burning in method:

It takes practice to get this method to look natural, which is easy to master when you have a nice defined area without things like buildings poking up above the horizon. A piece of card is needed to use as a mask. You do not need to use black card but if you have some all well and good. Otherwise any card will do, if one side is brighter than the other you should always make that side face the lens to reflect the light back. In my opinion you should make the mask smaller than the site that needs covering. Because the card is kept moving it will make up for the under size when used with an up and down motion. If you don't you can end up with a lighter shaded area a bit like an out line you would get if it was still. When you get it right it is very satisfying.

 Result:

I used forty seconds at grade four to burn in the building and sky. How did I know it would work? I further considered the segmented test print, took a calculated risk and listened to the little voice in the back of my head. In other words I went with the creative flow.

 

Basic outline for split grade printing.

Saturday 28 January 2017

Picture post Snow

This week I'm sharing these images of snow. Not that we have any but you never know.   

 







Technical Data:

In order of appearance:



  1. Nikon FM, 35mm, FP4, ISO 125, developed in Acufine, negative scanned.
  2. Bronica SQAi, 120, FP4+, ISO 125, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 
  3. Bronica SQAi, 120, FP4+, ISO 125, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 
  4. Bronica SQAi, 120, FP4+, ISO 125, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 
  5. Bronica SQAi, 120, FP4+, ISO 125, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade.
  6.  Bronica SQAi, 120, FP4+, ISO 125, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 
  7. Nikon F5 35mm,  Agfa APX, ISO 100, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 
  8. Nikon F5 35mm,  Agfa APX, ISO 100, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 
  9. Nikon F5 35mm,  Agfa APX, ISO 100, developed in ID11, printed on Ilford Multigrade paper RC gloss, developed in  Ilford Multigrade. 


Pictures for sale


Monday 23 January 2017

Welcome to the New Year

 On a grey and dull day I am going to say a big, bright THANK YOU to all my follows, subscribers and supports for visiting the blog over this last year. Views are up big time even though it has been a bad year personally.

As is the custom for this time of year I have a new header picture that shows a hand picking up or putting down an Agfa Isolette I will leave it up to you how you interpret my intent. If any of you have any suggestion please share your thoughts.

As I sit here writing this, it is peeing down with rain, which has inspired me to set up my pinhole camera to make an image that will take eighteen minutes to expose. Not the longest exposure I have made but getting there. This is  the start of my rediscovery of the wonders of  pinhole photography and the Zero camera in   articular which I hope to use more this year  instead of leaving it in the camera bag. A new   years resolution of sorts!

Talking of new year resolutions photograph wise -  have you set any? I don't as a rule but this  year is  going to be different I have two things I  could like  to achieve one I have already  mentioned the  other is to spend more time in the darkroom  printing, something that I can neglect. I find it  difficult to spend anytime at all during the  summer months in the darkroom I  o not like  wasting time inside if the weather is  bright and  warm, even in the evenings. I  suspect I'm not the  only one. What are your thoughts? 


I'm looking forward to seeing you all again this year. Don't be shy if you drop by - have a chat (leave a comment) - always interested in what you get up to. I shall leave you now as my mistress the darkroom is calling! I will chat with you all again later. Before I leave I would like to wish you all the best for the year ahead. 

Saturday 14 January 2017

Living with Tetenal Eukobrom AC

Developer
Tetenal new Eukobrom AC is proving to be a delight to work with. I did not realize how much of a irritant the smell of the developer was until it had been removed from the equation. I no longer have developers nose where the smell lingers long after I have left the darkroom. 

In an early article on this developer I had a couple of questions: Personally the main questions yet to be resolved are its keeping qualities and whether or not the image will be warm when the developer starts to deplete. One of these has now been answered, that is it's keeping qualities. I have been using it in my slot processor, at the end of each print session I leave the developer in the slot and cover it with the lid. The amount of time between each print session varies a lot from days to weeks sometimes months.

Slot processor
 Two things have come to light. If you leave the developer in the slot you should give it a stir before you start using it again. The active ingredient can separate out dropping to the bottom. I was caught out thinking that the developer had come to the end of it's working life because it had been left for two weeks. Something I did regularly with Ilfords multigrade without loss of usability.


Something else I have not experienced before was a black and white crystalline substance on top of the stop bath. It was a very heavy build up making it difficult to remove the top off the stop. The stop it's self was clear and still at the level it had been left at, turning out to still be working even so I changed it. This maybe an interaction with the vitamin C - something to keep an eye on.

The other question about the warming of the prints as the developer depletes still remains unanswered. This due to the fact I have not processed enough prints with the fresh developer. Once I notice I'll let you know.


 
Finally I have used this developer with a number of makes of paper now - RC and FB, natural, warm, cool tone and tinted papers - With great results, so if you have not tried it yet, do so! you can get it in 250 ml shots which is More than enough to get a feel for the way it works and looks.





Technical Data:

Developer Tetenal Eukobrom AC, paper Kentmere RC gloss. 








Tuesday 10 January 2017

Fading face?

One day later
I don't know about you but sometimes my mind wonders when I am processing photographs in the darkroom. I just can not help it, especially when an FB paper is involved, as sometimes it can be minutes till it is fully developed.

It was on one of these occasion that I started thinking about how long it would take for a developed image, but not fixed, to disappear. I have always thought it would be seconds once you turn on the light. Don't ask me where I got this notion from it is almost folk law among film uses. It is known that if you accidentally do it with film it all go's black straight away. Well the truth is, it can be saved if you are quick.




So what about photo paper? Firstly unexposed paper go's pink in day light and not black as I was expecting. The longer it is in the light the pinker it gets till it go's a pinky brown colour.













OK! a developed but not fixed image also degrades the same way but the image does not fade to black ether. In fact there is not much change a day later if left out on the table.


What is the biggest surprise of all nine months later and the image is just visible. You must bear in mind that it has not been in full day light all the time. I did notice that it had a couple of books on top of it for a time. It has well and truly surpassed any of my expectations. Just go's to show what you think you know may not bear any relation to the facts.




Technical data:

The images have been enhanced to help show the colour change digitally. The test strip appears in order of age from a couple of days to the last one nearly a year old and still going. I like the effect it has produced on the test strip. The paper is Ilford FB natural gloss. Developed in Ilford multigrade and washed, no stop or fix was used.

Last
What image looks like when processed
properly.