Fixing negatives and papers

It is important to fix your negatives fully, this will ensure their longevity.

Fixing removes the last of any light-sensitive material from the negatives stabilising and securing the images so they can be viewed in day light. The temperature of the fix should be the same as the developer and stop bath, 20 degrees C.

Most fixers nowadays are rapid fixers supplied in liquid concentrate form and will complete the fixing process in about two to five minutes. (always check the instructions on the bottle) over fixing will start to bleach the negative. These fixers are usually suitable for film and paper. There is a chance in the case of warm tone papers that they may suffer from bleaching of their warmth with rapid fixers, it would therefore be better to use a more traditional fixer made up from a powder to ensure no loss of tone.

Stop bath

Does what is says on the bottle! It is used instead of a wash as it helps to prolong the life of the fix and stops the developing process straight away. You must be careful not to contaminate the developer with stop, it will destroy it.

Stop can be obtained in two types of concentrated solution. One is odorless made from citric acid and the other acetic acid with a vinegar smell which can be quite pungent if used for prolonged periods in the darkroom, when processing prints in trays. Both have a colour change indicator added to the solutions so you can tell when it is exhausted.

Dilute the concentrated Stop one part solution to nineteen parts water (or as instructed on the bottle.) say 50 mls stop to a litre of water with a process time of one to two minutes, you will not gain anything by extending the stop time it is most active in the first few seconds. Agitate for the first thirty seconds, this ensures the developer has been completely deactivated, then ten seconds in every minute if you stop for two minutes.