Contact printing.

Now that you have your negatives safely stored and indexed, you need to sort out which negatives you are going to print. Trying to judge this by holding them up to the light or by laying them on a light box can be difficult. The best way is to produce a contact print showing all the frames on one sheet of photographic paper.

There are special frames that allow you to do this. You can buy contact print frames which consist of a glass top with film holders attached and a solid base with foam on that clips shut. For 35mm or 6x6 (medium format) which hold seven rows of six for 35mm or four row of three for medium format negatives. The frame holds the negatives so you can see the frame numbers on the print, you place them with the shine side up and put a soft grade light-sensitive paper on the base. Then shut the frame to bring the negatives in contact with the photographic paper, hence contact print.

Another method of contact printing is if you use clear plastic negative holders, you can place these directly onto the photographic paper. The problem with this method is it does not hold the negative completely flat to the paper which means that some of the pictures may be distorted. A way round it is a clean sheet of glass that is big enough to place over the negatives.

Test results for Agfa APX 100.

When taking pictures for the test it is best to choose a subject that is evenly lit. This will make the light reading more representative of the whole picture area. Unlike a high contrast view with deep shadows and strong highlights forcing you to take several light readings to find the average setting. It also makes it easer to evaluate the negatives once processed.

The processing of the film went well having spent all morning shuffling developing tanks, measuring jugs and developer bottles, the three strips of film have all been consistently processed. I am very pleased with the density of the negatives, when dry I will do a contact sheet so I can judge how well they will print.

You can see from the picture above, that the 13 minutes development time that digital truths massive dev chart suggests, is spot on. The results also show that you really do need to make a total and utter mess of things before you get a negative that will not print.

The light meter read negative at the centre
of the test strip.

There is a general guide to check whether a film has been correctly exposed and developed it should produce a continuously toned negative. The subjects deepest shadow should be perceptibly heavier than the clear of the film base. The areas that represent the brightest important detail in the negative must not be so dark that you can not read the printed words of a book through them on a sunny day as shown right. Its a quick way of checking to see if your negatives have been correctly developed.

The picture below shows the prints produced by the light meter read negatives in the centre of each of the test strips.

The difference between the top and centre is one and a half stops. bottom and centre is three-quarters of a stop. It is obvious that the longer you develop the less return you get for the time spent. Meaning that you will only get a slight improvement in the quality of your negatives for each minute of extra process time you give them over thirteen minutes.

These tests represent my own personal experiences I strongly encourage each individual to check this film out for themselves. The experiments I have carried out are not exhaustive and should only be used as a starting point.






Related posts:

Sorting out the test strips