Delta 100 and the lens-less camera

This is not the first time I have mentioned sharpness when it comes to pinhole photography. I know! not something you associate with the dream like quality of the images it produces. It is part of the reason that draws me to using a pinhole camera but it does not stop me speculating whether a T grain film would enhance the detail and therefore increase the sharpness.

I have already informally checked out the idea that Rodinal/RO9 could go some way to increasing sharpness which was done some time ago. (if your interested in that article I'll post a link at the end) The results did confirm that there was something in my observations. I will reiterate that the sharpness increase will not rival that of a lensed camera.

Delta 100 @100iso developed in RO9

 I did find that PMK Pyro developed negatives, when printed looked softer to the pictures produced from negatives processed in Rodinal/RO9 in a very subtle way. This then lead me on to thinking would T grain film with it's enhanced sharpness show a difference when used with a pinhole camera. Better still would it get a double boost when combined with Rodinal/RO9 developer?

 

Contact print on Fotospeed RCVC

So is there a difference? Yes a  noticeable one it has surprised me the level of increase. I'm not sure how much is down to the film alone because the film was developed in Rodinal/RO9. I suspect that most of it is from the films T grain and the developer has just enhanced the equation. 

What do I mean by an increase of sharpness - it shows it's self with a better defining of the details across all areas but still maintains that softness you expect from lens-less images. 

All the above were printed on Fotospeed RCVC paper developed in Ilford multigrade 

Link to older post on sharpness

Spiraling trouble?

Putting this lot back together was fun.

Y eh! right, there is no way I'm going to start separating a plastic spiral once the film had been processed. I was of that mind set until I started to use medium format film. In the old days I would gently unpick the 35mm film from the spool unwinding it slowly so as not to damage it. Then I was confronted with having to reset the spiral so it would take 120 film and because this film has a larger surface it is very easy to damage as I have found out.

Looking back I have to say what was all the fuss about. I think it is a lot to do with the unknown. If I take it apart will I ever get it back together? I will, just takes a bit of time. In my case the first time was easy I just gripped both sides of the spiral and twisted till it went click. Then gently pulled it apart until it reached the top slot and twisted it back the other way. Done! There that was not so bad. Huh! Not quite as clever as you thought, when it came to doing it again! I couldn't get it to go back together again no matter what I tried. It took ages to get those slots to meet up the right way and then they were backwards. Just before exasperation set in I put them down. Made a cup of tea and chilled. What makes it more maddening is when I went back to the spiral it went straight together with out a hitch.

Now a days it is second nature, don't be fooled it does not always go right first time.

Massive dev chart App

Digital truth have produced an app for all that wonderful film developing time data they have on their site. Called the Massive Dev chart timer. It has different colored screens so it can be used in the darkroom and will recalculate times for different temperatures.   

Now you can get any combination of  film and developer the heart desires at the touch of a button on your phone. It will cost you £5.99 and comes in Android and Apple flavors.

Drying agent?

This is the final thing you do before hanging up your negatives to dry. This helps with the drying process by reducing the water tension allowing it to run more freely and minimising drying marks caused by the lime in the water.

Add three or four drops of wetting agent to the developing tank. Agitate the spiral in an up and down motion for a few seconds and leave for a minute. A further refinement is to add wetting agent to de-ionised water and transfer the spiral to it. Take the spiral out and peal the film from its grip or separate the two halves whichever you find easiest to do.

Experience

There is no substitute for..................

In the initial stages of your quest to produce a good set of negatives with your first film, you are starved of knowledge and information and read everything you can lay your hands on. This is counter productive and becomes confusing as different people have their own method of arriving at the same result. Pick one practitioner with a simple method and stick with them, forsaking all others until you know what results will be obtained when you pull the film from the developing real.

The more straight forward the method the less things need to be checked when something go's wrong. What people do not tell you is that film processing is very forgiving and if you don't quite get the time right, the temperature is not spot on or you forget to invert the tank the right amount of times it will not make a vast difference to the final outcome. Possibly they will be slightly thiner or denser than normal but what is normal in your case? It is not until you have processed a number of films that you will truly know. Once you know what to exepect you can then personalise the method to get the negatives that suit your own taste.

Agitating the developing tank.

The main reason for inverting the developing tank is to make sure that the film gets equal treatment in the developer. One of the best ways of achieving this is to tumble the tank by turning it from end to end.

Why do we agitate the tank? The developer interacts with the emulsion of the film. It vigorously attacks the silver it come into contact with and becomes exhausted. By inverting the tank you refresh this action, producing evenly developed negatives. It is

important to get this right. To little agitation will allow by-products of the process to build up, leaving pale-toned streamers as they slide to the bottom of the tank. Likewise excessive inversions will produce currents in the developer, creating uneven development. Most process times allow for agitation.

Once the developer is added you should agitate the tank for the first thirty seconds but before you put the tank down give it a slight twist and tap it on a hard surface ( it is a good idea to lay a soft towel down so you do not damage the tank) so you dislodge any air bells/bubbles that may have attached themselves to the film. Then you need to agitate for ten seconds in every minute of the process time about four inversion per ten seconds or as the developer manufacturers instruction advise. For example PMK Pyro recommend one inversion every fifteen seconds. 

I have used this inversion method from the start of my developing career ( no pun intended) and has produced consistent results every time. Once you have found a method that works for you; you should stick to it.