Basic kit for producing Black and white negatives.

For those who are thinking of processing their own film it can be quite daunting for the first time. If you keep things basic by using popular brands like Ilford and Kodak for film and chemicals not much can go wrong. What people don't tell you is that film like FP4+ is quite forgiving and a good place to start processing for the novice, making it quite easy to get good results.

With the advent of digital the darkroom has become a lightroom with the help of a scanner and changing bag. You no longer have to look for a place in the property that is or can be made light tight.

The basic kit:

Changing Bag: looks like a tee-shirt without a hole to put your head through and is double lined to make sure it is light tight. It will take time too get used to and will require some dummy runs to get the feel of it. Developing tank: there are two types, 35mm and universal. The universal tank will allow you to process 120 format as well as 35mm; you will also need to practice loading the film onto the spiral. Oh! before I forget there are two types of spiral plastic and metal each uses a different Technic to load. I would suggest starting with the plastic type first as it easier to get the hang of. Force film washer: is a tube that fits onto the water tap and into the top of the developing tank. It is for putting water into the tank for the wash cycle. Three measuring jugs that will cope with more than 600 mls of fluid, Chemicals: Developer, Stop and Fix, all come as concentrate or powder and will require mixing with water to get the right working strengths. Spirit thermometer: for checking that the chemicals are at 20 degrees C. Storage containers: of a suitable size will be needed to keep diluted chemicals. Wetting agent: by putting a couple of drops in the developing tank after you finish washing the film and a minute before you take the film out helps to prevent drying marks on the film. Film clips times two: so you can hang the film up to dry and if you place one on the bottom it stops the film curling while drying. An alternative is to use Pegs.

The masking frame

Also called an easel they come in different sizes. It is a good idea to pick one that is larger than your current needs therefore not limiting the proportions of your enlargements. The main reasons for using a masking frame are to hold the paper flat, to reconfigure the composition, allow the margins to be adjusted to the various format sizes you wish to use and to crop out some of those bits that creep in at edges, that you didn't see before you pressed the shutter. 

The frames come with two or four independently adjustable blades on a yellow or white base. I have noticed that some blades are not set at right angles to each other so it is a good idea to check them at various settings with a set square to make sure they are true. Also make sure that the edges of the blades are not bevelled under. This will reflect the light and produce a thin black line around the edge of the picture. It can be a nice affect but one you should have control over. The light colour of the baseboard is so you can see the projected negative, enabling you to frame the image before you put the photo paper in place.

When using single weight papers on a white baseboard, it is possible for the light to pass through the paper and be reflected back, changing the value of the exposure. You can stop this by laying a dark coloured card on the baseboard with the light sensitive paper on top.

The most versatile of the masking frames is the four blade, it allows you to mask the image by only having to move the blades of the frame without having to re-a line the whole easel each time. It also gives better control over how big or small you make the margins and in some cases gives you the ability to produce borderless prints. The versatility of these frames makes them quite expensive to purchase.

Luxuary Darkroom.

Some more kit for those with a bit more space and money.

1. Enlarger with auto focus, tilting base and better lens.
2. Enlarging easel 30 x 40 cm (12"x16") with four blades.
3. Wall mounted safe lights and one white light.
4. Automatic darkroom timer.
5. Two timers one for developer and another for fix.
6. Dishes 30 x 40 cm (12"x 16") and or slot processor.
7. 50 ml measure.
8. Four heaters with built-in thermostats for dishes.
9. Four thermometers, alcohol.
10. Double sided glazier with thermostat.
11. Electric print dryer.
12. Roller squeegee.
13. Printing paper FB.
14. Vacuum mount press.
15. Film drying cabinet.
16. Paper washer.

This is not a definitive list.

The Thermometer.

This is one of the most important pieces of kit in the darkroom. As already mentioned temperature is one of the main controlling factors in the processing of your films and prints. It is important that you have good quality thermometers that are graduated to at least half a degree but a quarter of a degree is better and one that has a thicker line at the vital 20 degrees C. It is a good idea to have a thermometer for each of the chemicals you use in the processing of your films and prints as it will stop cross contamination.Also there will be no hold ups if you break one. It is recommended that you keep to one type, preferably alcohol as it is safer than mercury. If a mercury thermometer breaks it will contaminate the chemicals it comes into contact with and fog any prints that are being processed at the time.